[pukahead]

The issue with the front plate, so I've been told, is that the 06 and early 07's have two transmission line brackets that create interference near the back bolts.

I didn't seem to have any problems with seating the rear washers, nor notice any bracket interference--but if they are there on my 6/07 build , then that may be what is preventing the front of the plate from getting it's washers seated. Again, if the front holes were elongated to more of a slot shape, the washers may be able to seat better.

 

[cnckart]

Well I'm glad you guys got everything on ok. That is intersting about the cup washers though. I may revise that plate and slot the holes slightly as mentioned. These are the only two accounts I have heard of. The tension on the plates is normal and by design, so no worries there. If anyone needs replacement hardware PM me with your shipping address and I'll send out what ever you need.

 

[pathfinder]

Well I'm glad you guys got everything on ok. That is intersting about the cup washers though. I may revise that plate and slot the holes slightly as mentioned. These are the only two accounts I have heard of. The tension on the plates is normal and by design, so no worries there. If anyone needs replacement hardware PM me with your shipping address and I'll send out what ever you need.

I have my three skids ready to install, after doing some work on the tins. These replies will help me figure out any problems that might come up. I have a 08, so good luck to me. As for the anodize or not anodize question, have you seen any problems with the naked skids as time goes on?

 

[TIKI]

The rear ones go in fine, so do the front with out the rear in. the problem on mine is as you tighten the front ones down to the stand off's, the plate bends. The brackets or clamps are under a bulge in the factory skid??

I haven't readdressed the misalignment issue since being told about the brackets. It seems that adding enough washers to lengthen the stand off so it will tighten before plate warpage occurs should do the trick.

 

[pukahead]

The rear ones go in fine, so do the front with out the rear in. the problem on mine is as you tighten the front ones down to the stand off's, the plate bends. The brackets or clamps are under a bulge in the factory skid??

I haven't readdressed the misalignment issue since being told about the brackets. It seems that adding enough washers to lengthen the stand off so it will tighten before plate warpage occurs sybe I should hould do the trick.

If I remember what I saw when I added washers to the standoff side of the washers--with the rear holes in a static position, it effectively made the front holes need to be moved rearward to be centered. That was why I said slotted forward holes would allow for variations between vehicles. Maybe I should loosen the plate up and add more front washers and try again...

Brad--any comment?

 

[cnckart]

If I remember what I saw when I added washers to the standoff side of the washers--with the rear holes in a static position, it effectively made the front holes need to be moved rearward to be centered. That was why I said slotted forward holes would allow for variations between vehicles. Maybe I should loosen the plate up and add more front washers and try again...

Brad--any comment?

Can you guys post some pics so I can get a visual of what is going on here? Thanks!

 

[pukahead]

Here are the pics:

Right (passenger) front washer

Left (driver) front

Full front (the rear washers are actually seated flush)

 

[pukahead]

One other item--the cutouts on the bash plate and the motor plate are different diameters. The bash plate is a little over 3", while the motor plate was 3-1/2". One edge lined up, but the other side was a 1/2" off. The plates seemed like they were squared up at the outer edges. Did someone make a boo-boo here?

 

[pukahead]

As for the anodize or not anodize question, have you seen any problems with the naked skids as time goes on?

You probably won't--I think Tiki and I are just being overly cautious. I left mine bare on the lower, exposed side, since they'll likely be scraped up and are accessible. On the upper side I brushed on a coat of Rustoleum aluminum primer--it's a latex-base. Sprayed on a quick coat of aluminum color coat just to seal it in.

I was trying to go for some bling, so I sanded and polished the bash plate and A-arm plates. Thought of going for a mirror finish, but damn, that's a LOT of work! Forget it! So, it's just shiny--waiting for it's first scratches and scrapes...

Oh, one tip when installing the crossmember (did you get the diff and fuel tank plates?)--on the driver's side--you do NOT have to remove the plastic brake line clip from the frame. I removed it before realizing the crossmember didn't reach that upper, threaded hole, so it wasn't going to be in the way--so now it ain't ever going back in. Had to make other "arrangements" to secure the lines (cable ties). Of course, the instructions didn't say to take it off, either... :biggrin:

Both Tiki and I had to slightly bend the lower brake line to clearance the crossmember, even after rotating the brake line bracket as much as possible. Plus, I added some extra plastic spiral wrap over that line to prevent any chance of contact.

:cheers:

 

[cnckart]

Ok It looks to me that the front spacers need to be shortened up a little. I'm actually not in the shop this week to check on that length. It is possible you got the wrong spacers we have a bunch of different lengths we use. That cut out is just clearance arount the tin skid, as long as your plate squares up that's not a problem. I will check that program when I get back to the shop next week. I thinl if you can take a 1/4" or so off of those spacers They should mount flush.

Here are the pics:

Right (passenger) front washer

Left (driver) front

Full front (the rear washers are actually seated flush)

 

[TIKI]

I started getting a low grinding noise (kind of like tire rub) after installing the last three plates, they are nowhere near the tires.

Some times it sounds like it's emanating from the engine / tranny other times it sounds like it's from the gas tank skid area. When starting I get two to three grinding sounds, and when starting cold I get the same thing but it also makes noise during acceleration and worse when turning. This seems to go away in a minute or so or fades from engine to gas tank. After she's warm it goes away (Accept restarts).:frown:

Yes all the plates and nuts / bolts are tight.

Any ideas???

 

[pathfinder]

Thanks for the info pukahead. I purchased the bash, engine, and tranny skid to start. At least I know what to look for when I get to the install. Good pics. I know several other have installed without any problems, so maybe they did send you a set of longer spacers by mistake. I was going to wait until my Demello sliders were ready and have a mod day, however I think I will install the skids this Saturday. I'll post up when I'm done.

 

[pukahead]

Ok It looks to me that the front spacers need to be shortened up a little. I'm actually not in the shop this week to check on that length. It is possible you got the wrong spacers we have a bunch of different lengths we use. That cut out is just clearance arount the tin skid, as long as your plate squares up that's not a problem. I will check that program when I get back to the shop next week. I thinl if you can take a 1/4" or so off of those spacers They should mount flush.

Hmmm, you gonna be sending me new spacers with the Cat protector bolts and washers, or telling me to grind 'em down? Are those plated steel? Just don't want 'em rusting on me, if they get ground down--not after all the work I put in for corrosion proofing the unseen parts...

Not in a rush, so I can wait till you get back to the shop.

Thanks, Brad!

 

[cnckart]

Hmmm, you gonna be sending me new spacers with the Cat protector bolts and washers, or telling me to grind 'em down? Are those plated steel? Just don't want 'em rusting on me, if they get ground down--not after all the work I put in for corrosion proofing the unseen parts...

Not in a rush, so I can wait till you get back to the shop.

Thanks, Brad!

I already had Jeff send out the cup washer and bolts, when I get back to the shop next week I'll be in touch with you. I'll get you some spacers out. If you can't wait and decide to grind them down just hit them with some paint and they'll be ok.

 

[cnckart]

I started getting a low grinding noise (kind of like tire rub) after installing the last three plates, they are nowhere near the tires.

Some times it sounds like it's emanating from the engine / tranny other times it sounds like it's from the gas tank skid area. When starting I get two to three grinding sounds, and when starting cold I get the same thing but it also makes noise during acceleration and worse when turning. This seems to go away in a minute or so or fades from engine to gas tank. After she's warm it goes away (Accept restarts).:frown:

Yes all the plates and nuts / bolts are tight.

Any ideas???

These plates really aren't any where near any moving parts, the only thing I can think of is to check the crossmember to exhuast clearance. You guys are really throwing me some curve balls. lol. Let me know what you find.

 

[pukahead]

I already had Jeff send out the cup washer and bolts, when I get back to the shop next week I'll be in touch with you. I'll get you some spacers out. If you can't wait and decide to grind them down just hit them with some paint and they'll be ok.

I'll wait. Rather have them plated all around... :biggrin:

Thanks for the great support and customer service!

:cheers:

 

[TIKI]

I think you're onto something there Brad. The clearance between the exhaust and the crossmember is .014 with a feeler gage.

If that's the reason, I feel a lot better, because though I'm not sure where to go with that, at least it's not major mechanical problems!

I'll wedge a pad between them and see if that stops the noise of impending doom, if so that’s the prob.

Then what mill a clearance pocket, weld filler plate, re prime and paint? ugh.

 

[pukahead]

Wow, only 14 thousandths--that's pretty close. Glad Brad did the clearance cut on mine! Maybe that needs to be a revision for all new cossmembers. Funny that your noise goes away when warm, or gets worse when turning--would have figured you would get less clearance when the metal gets hot and expands. And when turning? My chassis feels a lot stiffer with the additional crossmember and the tensioned plates, so can't see things moving during a turn.

Can you loosen the exhaust bracket mount, pull the crossmember as far down as you can and push the bracket up, to see if that gives you enough clearance? I used the provided, longer, Allen head bolts on the bracket, and reused a stock bolt on the forward crossmember mounting bolt location.

 

[TIKI]

I wedged a piece of cardboard in-between the exhaust tube and crossmember and the sound went away.

This weekend I will try to reposition the exhaust and\or crossmember.

 

[pukahead]

I wedged a piece of cardboard in-between the exhaust tube and crossmember and the sound went away.

This weekend I will try to reposition the exhaust and\or crossmember.

Brad--saw Tiki's install last night--he has the TRD exhaust installed--and it is sooo close I can see where it would be a problem. May be a stack up of tolerances of where the cross tube is welded to the side plates, the install of the crossmember, and where his pipe sits when bolted to the exhaust flange. That crossmember clearance cut, which you did for mine, may be a good thing for all crossmembers you make... ...yeah, I know, more labor to do...